The Dead Sea —
The motorboat cut through the aquamarine water of the Dead
Sea, past dazzling-white formations forged from salt crystals. Jake Ben
Zaken, the boat captain, pointed to a patch of darker water nearby
indicating a sinkhole beneath the seabed. These are both signs of an
unfolding ecological disaster, he said.
The Dead Sea sits where Israeli, Jordanian and Palestinian
land meet and is a place of extremes. It’s the lowest point on the
planet, around 1,400 feet below sea level. It’s also one of the world’s
saltiest water bodies, nearly 10 times saltier than the ocean, which
makes the water so dense people can float effortlessly on its surface.
But this unique body of water is dying. Every year it
recedes around 4 feet, as the impacts of human activities and climate
change take a heavy toll. Over the past five decades, its surface area
has shrunk by roughly a third. As the water retreats, it’s forging a new
landscape of sinkholes and salt-encrusted shorelines that is both
strikingly beautiful and a haunting reminder that the Dead Sea’s future
hangs in the balance.
Jake Ben Zaken runs boat tours on the Dead Sea and has a front row seat to the rapid changes.
Laura Paddison/CNN
Ben Zaken, who runs the company Salty Landscapes from Mitzpe
Shalem, a settlement in the West Bank, has been taking people out onto
the Dead Sea for more than 12 years. It’s given him a front row seat to
the alarming changes.
His boat tours used to start from Mineral Beach, just to the
south of Mitzpe Shalem, but he was forced to move when sinkholes closed
it in 2015. His current location is safe for now, but the landscape is
shifting fast. “Every year we get about seven and a half meters of new
shoreline,” Ben Zaken said.
There are multiple plans to save the Dead Sea, but the years
tick by and little happens as costs, fraught regional politics and a
lack of political urgency stymie action, experts told CNN. Unless
something is done, the world risks losing a unique ecosystem, they
warned.
“It is a treasure,” said Peleg Gottdiener of EcoPeace Middle
East, an organization of Israeli, Jordanian, and Palestinian
environmentalists. “There’s nothing like the Dead Sea.”
The Dead Sea’s demise is human-caused.
This landlocked swath of salty water is technically a lake.
Water enters from the Jordan River, which starts on the Syria-Lebanon
border, flows through the Sea of Galilee in northern Israel, then
continues its journey south toward the Dead Sea, with Jordan on one side
and Israel and the occupied West Bank on the other.
Over the decades, the Jordan River, and its main tributary
the Yarmouk, have shrunk as they’ve been dammed and diverted by Israel,
Syria and Jordan to quench the thirst of people, crops and livestock.
The river used to transport 1.3 billion cubic meters of water to the
Dead Sea; that has fallen to roughly 100 million cubic meters.
The mineral extraction industry is the other major driver of decline.
In the late 1970s, the Dead Sea split into two basins, now
separated by a strip of dry land. The deeper northern basin, where Ben
Zaken operates his boat tours, is the natural remnant of the sea. The
southern basin is artificially maintained, made up of a series of
industrial evaporation pools.
Companies on the Israeli and Jordanian sides — the Dead Sea
Works and the Arab Potash Company — pump water from the northern basin
into the pools. The water evaporates in the sun leaving behind a
mineral-rich brine, from which companies extract minerals including
potash and magnesium for fertilizers and other industrial uses.
There’s another force at work too: climate change. Droughts
are becoming fiercer and more prolonged, and rainfall is rarer. Even
without river diversions and industry, there’s evidence climate change
impacts would cause the Dead Sea to shrink, albeit far more slowly, said
Yael Kiro, a geochemist at the Weizmann Institute of Science, who
studies the Dead Sea.
As it shrinks, the Dead Sea is changing. It’s becoming even saltier.
Since the 1980s, concentrations of salt in the water have become too
high to remain dissolved, said professor Nadav Lensky, director of the
Dead Sea Observatory at the Geological Survey of Israel.
This causes the salt to form solid crystals, which drift like snow down
to the sea floor, creating natural salt sculptures. Most crystals
accumulate as salt layers forming intricate structures that can take
many shapes, influenced by water temperature and currents. Some look
like chimneys, others like domes or mushrooms.
Salt crystals on the shore of the Dead Sea. Laura Paddison/CNN
Salt sculptures take many shapes. Laura Paddison/CNN
The retreating water is also changing the landscape in a more dangerous way.
At an entrance to Ein Gedi, a once-popular Dead Sea beach
resort now permanently closed, a big yellow sign reads “no entry for
pedestrians.” It’s soon clear why. The road toward the shore has been
carved up by huge, circular sinkholes.
To get closer to the water means picking your way past the sinkholes and
over fallen palm trees. A restaurant, changing rooms and gas station
all stand abandoned nearer the shoreline. A set of broken steps leads
down to a beach now so far away it’s impossible to see. The resort has
an eerie, almost apocalyptic feel.
A sinkkhole on the road to Ein Gedi, a now-closed beach resort on the western shore of the Dead Sea in Israel. Cyril Theophilos, CNN
The sinkholes that closed Ein Gedi, and other Dead Sea
beaches, are a direct result of the water’s retreat, Kiro said. Rapidly
dropping water levels allow freshwater to seep into the ground,
dissolving the ancient layers of salt and creating underground cavities.
When these grow too large, the ground above eventually collapses,
causing sinkholes to open up suddenly and without warning.
There are now more than 6,000 sinkholes
around the Dead Sea and they threaten businesses and residents as well
as tourism, which, on the Israeli side, is now almost exclusively in the
industrial southern basin. Few tourists will likely realize that
they’re bathing in an artificial evaporation pond.
A visitor to the DMZ Medical Spa in southern Israel floats in the evaporation ponds of the Dead Sea. Bill Weir/CNN
The need to halt the Dead Sea’s decline is urgent, but there is no simple solution.
One idea is to find a new source of water to replenish it.
In 2013 Jordan, Israel and the Palestinian Authority signed a memorandum
of understanding to explore the idea of pumping water from the Red Sea
to the Dead Sea.
The plan involved constructing a desalination plant on the
Jordanian coast to produce freshwater and building a pipeline, more than
100 miles long, to bring the salty brine created during desalination to
the Dead Sea.
Some environmental experts are concerned that adding water
with a different chemical composition could cause algae blooms or the
formation of white gypsum crystals in the Dead Sea.
Hazim El-Naser, chairman of the Middle East Water Forum and former
Jordanian water minister, said extensive environmental studies have
shown up to 600 million cubic meters of seawater could be added “without
any problems.” For now, however, the project has stalled due to its
multibillion-dollar price tag and the increasing difficulty of forging
regional cooperation.
Another idea is to restore the Jordan River by reducing diversion and
releasing more water into it — potentially using treated wastewater. But
some experts warn the water will simply be removed before it reaches
the Dead Sea, such is the need in this parched region. It’s “impossible
to take (water) from the people unless you provide an alternative,”
El-Naser said.
A dead palm tree lies across the road in Ein Gedi, which used to be a popular beach resort on the Dead Sea. Laura Paddison/CNNBroken steps lead down to the shoreline at Ein Gedi. Laura Paddison/CNN
Others want to target industry. Abdelrahman Tamimi, the
general director of the Palestinian Hydrology Group, said companies
should stop pumping water to extract minerals. Others say the solution
isn’t completely stopping industry — which supports jobs and tax
revenues — but cutting its water use.
The Dead Sea Works has extracted minerals from the Dead Sea
under a concession agreement since 1961. This comes to an end in 2030,
and the draft of the new agreement does include fees for water use.
If people are making money from the Dead Sea’s water, “take
some of that money and turn it back to water to make sure that we have
the Dead Sea forever,” said Meirav Abadi, legal counsel for the Israel
Union for Environmental Defense.
ICL Group, which owns Dead Sea Works, did not respond to
CNN’s request for comment but says on its website it withdraws a net
total of 160 million cubic meters of water a year from the Dead Sea and that it is “innovating to develop sustainable water management strategies.”
The western shore of the Dead Sea. Cyril Theopilus, CNN EcoPeace’s Gottdeiner said a big hurdle to any solution is that
ultimately “there’s no sense of urgency” at a political level. He and
other experts believe it’s probably impossible to restore the Dead Sea
to the level it was a few decades ago; the focus instead should be on
stabilizing its decline.
Israel’s Ministry of Environmental Protection rejected
claims of a lack of urgency. “The ongoing decline of the Dead Sea is a
serious environmental issue of national and regional importance,” a
spokesperson said, adding “the Ministry continues to advance policy and
planning efforts to address the issue.”
For now, those with homes and businesses along its shores must live with uncertainty.
Ben Zaken of Salty Landscapes knows he’s on borrowed time.
Every time he shows up at the beach where he starts his boat tours, he
scans the sand to see if a sinkhole has appeared. It would put him out
of business immediately, he said, and there’s no insurance that will
cover what now seems like an inevitability.
Change here doesn’t happen slowly, he said, “it’s a rapid-paced disaster.”
Zeena Saifi and Jeremy Diamond contributed to this report